Mt. Pumori Expedition

TRIP FACT

Elevation:7,161m (27,494ft)

Location:Nepal/Tibet border

Coordinates:28°00′53″ N 86°49′41″ E

First Ascent:Gerhard Lenser (Swiss), 1962

Climbing Season:Late spring

Expedition duration:44 days (typically)

Climbing duration:27 days (typically)

Group Size:02-15 person per Group

Pumori Expedition (7161m.)

About Mt. Pumori:

The most popular mountain for those who wish to climb 7000m peaks in the Himalayas of Nepal is Mt. Pumori (7161m). Mt. Pumori is situated in Khumbu region with the pyramid shaped and stunningly looking Peak 8km west of Mount Everest along Nepal-Tibet Border. Mt. Pumori dominates the skyline behind Kalapatther 5643m, which looks like a clump of rock on Pumori Southwest ridge. Pumori Expedition proves an ideal preparation for those aspiring for the more technical 8000m peaks including the Mt Everest. The peak was named "Pumori" by George Leigh Mallory, apparently means "Unmarried Daughter" in the Sherpa language. The best season to explore this stunning peak is September to November and March to May.

Mt. Pumori Expedition:

Mt. Pumori is first ascended in 1964 by a German Swiss expedition team. Although a 7,000er, Mt. Pumoriis technically challenging mountain offering sections of wild exposure requiring climbers to have previousmountaineering experience and with excellent physical fitness level. Mt. Pumori Expedition is rewarded with stunning photographic views of snowy mountains including Mt. Lhotse and Mt. Everest.

The climb to Pumori is very popular and coveted as introductory qualifying climb for Everest by many operators. Whatever your reason to climb it is a fun and reasonably straightforward and accessible climb with relatively low objective danger. It is also a very nice introduction to climbing in Khumbu region and a funny way to do Everest Base Camp trek with   7000m peak climb which is easy, quick and non-cumbersome acclimatization process. We arrange both the logistic support and guided climbing forPumori expedition. Climbing Pumori requires a moderate technical climb on ice and snow. The normal route for the climbing is South East Ridge.

Expedition Routes:

• Our plan is to attempt a summit via the Standard Route on the South East Ridge, a grade 3 snows and ice climb that requires a good understanding of alpine climbing techniques and familiarity with the effects of high altitude.

• We take the classic route along the South-East Ridge. Generally three camps are set up above the base camp. The Base camp will be set up at 5300m. Climb through the glaciers for approx. 4 hours and reach Camp 1 at 5700m.

• From Camp 1, we climb the face with 40-60 degrees slope and pass through a snow wall to reach camp 2 at 6200m.

• From camp 2, climb through ice walls and crevasses to reach Camp 3 at 6480m. Passing through crevasses, climb up to Pumori cliff and then to the summit.

Mt. Pumori Expedition Base Camp Services:

In the Base Camp,

• Everest Expeditions Nepal provides very professional, helpful and friendly service from Kathmandu to the ABC and during the climb. Our objective is to provide a good quality, helpful, safe, friendly, stress free and comprehensive service to maximize summit opportunity.

• Our cooks and helpers will prepare and serve three delicious freshly cooked and plentiful meals a day and will ensure that hot and cold drinks are available 24hrs a day.

• We provide spacious expedition quality personal tents for all our clients both with full board and base-camp service. In the base camp we also provide dining tent, kitchen tent, toilet facilities and portable shower facilities and tent accommodation for our staff.

• We provide access to communication including satellite telephone and internet access, solar panels to charge your batteries and UHF/VHF hand held radios on the mountain to maintain communications between ABC and high camps.

• Our Leader and camp manager as well as climbing Sherpas have an extensive experience of multiple climbs above 7000m, so whether you use our full board service or Base camp services you can expect good advice and support.

Mt. Pumori Expedition Full Board Services:

For full board clients additional,

• We provide personal tent and food with the climbing Sherpa, who will prepare appropriate meals. We provide a personal climbing Sherpa guide to help the clients to reach the summit.

• Personal climbing Sherpa will set up high camps including food provisions and fuel and will guide and assist the client on the summit day and if required will set-up fixed rope to ensure the safety.

• We provide the climbing Sherpa with appropriate radio communication to Base Camp from the climbing route.

Approaches to ABC:

The approached to Pumori route is through the Khumbu region of Nepal leading up to the Khumbu Glacier extending down to Lobuche (4900m). It starts with the flight to Lukla and the trek via Namche Bazaar (3440m), Tengaboche (36600m), Pheriche (4270m), Lobuche (4910m), Gorak Shep (5140m) to Pumori Base Camp (5300m). It takes typically 8 days to reach ABC from Kathmandu.

Climbing Routes:

• The standard route begins at the Base Camp (5300m) located above Gorak Shep on a small lake, which will be our water source. The water must be either filtered or purified by iodine tablets or boiled. The Base Camp is located at the base of Kalapatther (5545m), which forms a tremendous backdrop for the camp. The camp is also elevated above the Gorak Shep and hence it has an amazing view on Everest.

• Camp 1, serving really as the Advanced Base Camp (ABC) is located on a protected rock outcrop at 5300m; it takes only 3hrs of hiking to reach Camp 1 from the Base Camp. It will be our base to store our gear and supplies for the climb.

• Camp 2 (6200m) is located on a narrow ridge on the top of ice ledge. The route to camp 2 is a mixed snow and rock with a slope to 35deg and will involve some scrambling. Where required our Climbing Sherpa will fix the rope for the rest of the climbing period

• Camp 3 is located on the ridge on a protected flat area below a rock buttress at 6700m. The section from camp 2 to camp 3 is short but it is the most difficult section of the climb due to a short but steep icy snow section of some 6m and about 75deg, where the fixed rope will be set-up. After that the slope flattens and we reach Camp 3 about 100m above. There is some objective danger of crevasses and fallen ice from overhanging seracs. We are on the ridge and view is tremendous on Everest massif as well as the view opens towards Tibetan plateau.

Pumori Expedition Spring 2016

Every Year in spring and autumn the Mt. Pumori Expedition could be scheduled.

In autumn you may start this expedition since end of August and complete at around end of September and, or any dates during August till October not exceeding middle of November for end of it. In this period the temperature toward the expedition area is changing from hot to cold. So, the climber has to face the critical situation for acclimatization for approaching to summit.

However in spring, the temperature to the Pumori climbing area is getting from cold to hot which is more convenient for approaching to summit after sufficient acclimatization and practice in various camps. Start at the beginning of April and end at the beginning of June is the best recommended period for Pumori Expedition in spring. The total duration will be within 37 days.

Thus we strongly recommend our climbers to choose the spring season for their Pumori Summit Dream however, we are ready enough for organizing the Expedition in both autumn and spring of the year.

General Itinerary:

Day 01:Arrival and Transfer

This day is your arrival date. We welcome and receive you in Tribhuvan International Airport, Kathmandu and transfer you to the Hotel for overnight accommodation as booked. (1300M)

Day 02:Preparation and Briefing for Departure to Everest Region

This day we are busy for briefing about expedition, documentation and last minute shopping and preparation for departure to the trekking and climbing route. You will be kept in get set position.

Day 03:Kathmandu-Lukla Scenic Flight and short trek

Today you fly to Lukla from Kathmandu at early morning, take breakfast in Lukla and Trek (4hrs) to Phakding (2652m) where you get teahouse or lodge accommodation in full board basis.

Day 04:Phakding to Namche Bazaar Trek.

Today you trek (6hrs) from Phakding to Namche Bazaar (3440m) through colorful Khumbu villages where you get teahouse or lodge accommodation in full board basis.

Day 05:Rest day for acclimatization

Today is the rest day but you may hike to famous Everest View Hotel (3800m) (3hrs) to catch a glimpse of Mt. Everest and back to Namche visit Hilary and Sherpa museum. You get teahouse or lodge accommodation in full board basis.

Day 06:Namche Bazaar to Tyangboche Trek

Today you trek (5hrs) from Namche Bazaar to Tyangboche (3850m) visit significant Buddhist monastery lodge accommodation where you get teahouse or lodge accommodation in full board basis.

Day 07:Tyangboche to Dingboche Trek

Today you trek (4-5hrs) from Tyangboche to Dingboche (4350m) catch glimpses of Lhotse and Ama Dablam where you get teahouse or lodge accommodation in full board basis.

Day 08:Dingboche to Lobuche Trek

Today you trek (4hrs) from Dingboche to Lobuche (5018m) where you get teahouse or lodge accommodation in full board basis.

Day 09:Rest for acclimatization at Lobuche

Today is the day for rest and acclimatization at Lobuche for further trekking.

Day 10:Lobuche to Gorakshep Trek

Today you trek (3hrs) from Lobuche to Gorakshep (5170m) where you get teahouse or lodge accommodation in full board basis.

Day 11:Gorakshep to Pumori Base camp Trek.

Today you trek (2hrs) from Gorakshep to Lhotse Base camp (5200m). You will have preparation for tented camping in Base camp for further expedition. Here you get full board services.

Day 12-30:Pumori Summit Climbing Period 

These days are the major climbing days for you to ascend the summit of most awaited Mt. Pumori. After some day’s acclimatization and exercise you will be taken to the higher camp to be closer to the summit of (7.161m) where you will be provided food for high altitude. We are allowed to trek from lower to upper camp or vice versa for more practice and acclimatization. Finally we wish for your success to reach in the summit. Here you get full board service with tented camp accommodation.

Day 31:Trek down from base camp via Lobuche to Dingboche 

After a successful summit of Mt. Pumori (hopefully), you will be taken back to Dingboche (4260m) via Lobuche (5218) from Everest Base Camp where you get teahouse or lodge accommodation in full board basis.

Day 32:Dingboche to Tyangboche trek

You are descending toward Tyangboche (3860m) by trek (4hrs) from Dingboche on this day where you get teahouse or lodge accommodation in full board basis.

Day 33:Tyangboche to Namche Bazaar Trek

From Tyangboche you are descending down to Namche bazaar (3440m) after 4 hrs trek where you get teahouse or lodge accommodation in full board basis.   

Day 34:Namche Bazaar to Lukla Trek.  

Today is your last day for Trek (7hrs) from Namche Bazaar to Lukla (2840m) where you get teahouse or lodge accommodation in full board basis.   

Day 35:Fly Back to Kathmandu.

Today you fly from Lukla to Kathmandu same about 35 minute and we transfer to your booked Hotel with BB Plan accommodation.

Day 36:The Leisure day and sightseeing

This day we take you for sightseeing in and around Kathmandu (Hanumandhoka Durbar Square, Swoyambhunath, Boudhanath, and Pashupatinath) and Farewell-Celebration dinner with local typical cultural experience in Restaurant.

Day 37:Transfer for Final Departure 

This is the day that we are really missing you. We transfer you to the airport or any port for final departure or alternatively join other activities.

Note:

• The above itinerary is a guideline and standard suggested pattern chosen by majority of our customers. Your final itinerary will be customized according to your available time and requirements.

• The final itinerary duration and schedule may be reduced or extended depending on your time, budget, your fitness, class of service or any other preferences. The quote will be provided for you initial requirements and can be adjusted with mutual agreement should you require modifying these requirements.