Mt. Manaslu Expedition

TRIP FACT

Elevation:8,163m (26,763ft)

Location:Nepal/Manaslu Region/Lamjung District

Coordinates:28°33′0″ N 84°33′35″ E

First Ascent:Toshio Imanishi and Gyalzen Norbu (Japan), May 9, 1956

Climbing Season:Late spring (traditionally less hazardous) and autumn

Expedition duration:54 days (typically)

Climbing duration:32 days (typically)

Group Size:02-15 person per Group

Manaslu Expedition (8,163m)

What is Mt. Manaslu?

Mt. Manaslu a part of Nepalese Himalayas in the Gorkha massif with an altitude of 8161m is world’seighth highest peak. It is also known as Kutang. The location of this mountain peak is in Mansiri Himal in Gorkha district of Nepal. “Manasa” in Sanskrit means “Mountain of the Spirit” is converted to thisGorkha’s highest peak Mt. Manaslu as "intellect" or "soul". This Mt. Manaslu is situated about 40 miles east of Mt. Annapurna of Kaski District. Manaslu is an imposing mountain being a 3092m prominence it extends from crops cultivation area to the area permanently covered with snow and ice; hence it looks like a serrated wall of snow and ice hanging in the sky. Manaslu's long ridges and valley glaciers offer feasible approaches from all directions, and culminate in a peak that towers steeply above its surrounding landscape.

Manaslu region is located in Central Nepal and was opened to trekkers only in 1991. But lots ofmountaineering expedition teams had access for long time. In 1950 a group headed by H.W. Tilman trekked this area for the first time and ever since this area has been quite popular among tuff trekkers. This area is still restricted to a limited number of groups and only organized trekkers in groups can trek in this area. Manaslu region is very remote and rescue is very difficult. This is possible wilderness area to live leopard of snow. Yet the trek is geographically spectacular and culturally fascinating. Lots of people residing in this area especially in the upper Buri Gandaki (river) Valley are Tibetan. A place in this valley called Nupri (meaning Western Mountain in Tibetan) is a trading center among Tibetans and Tibetans residing in these areas.

Mt. Manaslu Expedition:

Mt. Manaslu is located in a remote and isolated area and the first photographs were obtained only in 1950 by British expedition. It was surveyed for climbing by Japanese expedition in 1952 and after few attempts between 1953 and 1956 Manaslu was finally climbed by Japanese in 1956. This Japanese team was all of female team introduced a first women successor of climbing over 8000m peak. Mt. Manaslu Expeditionrequires more time than other 8000m Peaks in Nepal due to long approach to reach to the base of the mountain. However, we can use a helicopter to make an expedition shorter. This Manaslu Expedition is one of the most dangerous mountain climbing activities and hence we suggest to choose this trip only by the experienced climbers.

Mt. Manaslu Expedition Base Camp Services:

In the Base Camp,

• Everest Expeditions Nepal provides very professional, supportive and friendly mountaineering logistic services from Kathmandu to the ABC as well as during the climb. Our objective is to ensure a good quality, supportive, safe, friendly, stress free and comprehensive service to maximize summit opportunity.

• We provide a comprehensive service organizing all necessary permits, and climbing documentation, travelling logistics including airfares, ground transportation, porters, and other individual services required by mountaineers. On the track to the ABC we organize all required accommodation and food.

• Our cook and helpers will prepare and serve three delicious freshly cooked and plentiful meals a day and will ensure that hot and cold drinks are available 24hrs a day.

• We provide spacious expedition quality personal tents for all our clients both with full board or base-camp service only.

• We also provide dining tent, kitchen tent, toilet facilities and portable shower facilities and tent accommodation for our staff.

• We provide access to communication including satellite telephone and internet access, and solar panels to charge your batteries.

Manaslu Expedition Full Board Services:

• For full board clients we provide personal tent and food, which will be prepared by their climbing Sherpa. We provide UHF/VHF hand held radios on the mountain to maintain communications between ABC and high camps.

• We provide a personal climbing Sherpa guide to help the clients to reach the summit. The secret of success on Manaslu is a strong and experienced climbing Sherpa. No matter how good and experienced climber, it is a long slog. Personal climbing Sherpa will set up camp 1 and camp 2 and camp 3 including food provisions, fuel and oxygen and will guide and assist the client on the summit day.

Approaches to ABC:

• The trek into the base camp of Manaslu is absolutely breathtaking and takes you back in time when all Himalayan mountains were approached on foot. The trek starts at low elevation of 950m in Arughat and rises gradually over next 10 trekking days. It is a perfect way to acclimatize before base camp is reached and to take on climbing relatively quickly. From the village of Arughat situated in the low country the trek climbs through narrow gorges, rhododendron forest and local pastures to emerge into the higher alpine country with Tibetan influences.

• The Advanced Base Camp (ABC) (4800m) is located at the lateral moraine of the Manaslu Glacier and it can be reached within 10 days trek or there is also option of flying in to ABC by MI-17 helicopter from Kathmandu.

Climbing Routes:

• Manaslu has many interesting routes leading to the common summit and many of them were climbed and explored. The standard commercial route is along the original route of the 1956 Japanese expedition up the Northeast face.

• The climb is straightforward and only slightly more technical then Cho Oyu or Shishapangma, however with low Base Camp it is a long climb and with relatively high objective avalanche risk.

• Traditionally there are 3 camps above base camp C1 (5,500m), C2 (6,300m) and C3 (7,300 m). Some expeditions establish an intermediate camp between C2 and C3 at 6,700m. The terrain encountered on the ascents varies from glacier crossings to steep snow steps and requires a good understanding of basic alpine climbing techniques. Manaslu has been climbed Alpine style but traditionally all commercial operators practice expedition style to improve the chances of summit success for the clients.

Manaslu Expedition Autumn 2016 Itinerary

Sep 04: Day 1:  Arrival and Hotel Transfer in Kathmandu.

Everest Expeditions Nepal representative will assist for reception you from our International Airport (TIA) and transfer to the hotel in Kathmandu as per agreed category. Team members will be accommodated on a twin share basis in booked rooms. Single rooms are available if you prefer, for which a supplement is payable.

Sep 05: Day 2: At leisure in Kathmandu and briefing and Preparing.

There will be time for us to explore the markets, shops and monasteries of this fascinating Kathmandu city. The expedition leader will also examine everyone's climbing equipment so that any shortfalls can be purchased in Kathmandu. The leader will attend a briefing with the Department of Tourism Industries (DTI) and obtain our Expedition permit.

Sep 06: Day 3: Drive from Kathmandu to Arughat (606m).

The Trekking guide will come to your Hotel early in the morning at 7.00 am to pick you up and take you for 8 hours driving journey to Arughat by public surface transport. From Kathmandu to Dhading Bensi about 3 hours is comfortable drive however from there to Arughat for another 4 hours the drive will be on dirt road. Overnight Tented Camp accommodation with full board will be at Arughat.

Sep 07: Day 4: Trek from Arughat to Soti Khola (712m).

This trek will follow the Budi Gandaki River today toward its point of origin takes about 6 hours to walk. We pass the village of Morder and Simre to reach Arkhat River. After Arkhat River, we ascend slowly toward Kyoropani. You camp today near the confluence of Soti River an ideal place to take a fresh water bath. Overnight Tented Camp accommodation with full board will be at Soti Khola.

Sep 08: Day 5: Trek from Sati Khola to Machha Khola (883m).

The trail descends slowly until you climb again to mountain ridge to Almara; pass the forest trail to arrive at Riden Gaon. The valley here cuts into another side of the river to enter Budi Gandaki. At Lambesi, the trail follows down to the sandy riverbed of Budi Gandaki. Within in 5-6 hours walk you camp tonight at Machha River at Tented accommodation with full board.

Sep 09: Day 6: Trek from Machha Khola to Jagat (1,415m).

After crossing Machha Khola (River) and Khrola besi, there is a hot spring called "Tatopani". The trail follows forested area after this toward Dovan. Below Dovan, there is a huge rapid at Budi Gandaki. As the elevation increases, the rapids and the scenery undergoes a complete transformation. At Jagat, there is a police check-post where the checkpoint of your trekking permit is situated. Overnight Tented Camp accommodation will set at Jagat for today. 

Sep 10: Day 7: Trek from Jagat to Philim (1,606m).

The trail now crosses the river and climbs over a rocky ridge to the settlement of Salleri. We continue up the side of a cliff, and then descend to Setibas, where several Mani walls indicate we are now entering a region of Tibetan influence. The trail continues up to the stone houses of Ghatta Khola, and then heads over to the east side of the river to Philim. It takes 5-6 hours to walk. 

Sep 11: Day 8: Trek from Philim to Ghap (3.200m).

Beyond Philim, the trail enters a steep uninhabited gorge. We descend grassy slopes and cross the Budi Gandaki on a wooden cantilever bridge where the river is at its narrowest. The trail now hangs on a cliff, climbing over ridges and descending back to the river. The valley finally widens and it's a pleasant walk through bamboo forests to the tiny village of Deng. We have now succeeded in crossing the main Himalayan Range, and the trail follows the Budi Gandaki Valley as it turns from north-south to east-west. This region is known as Kutang and is inhabited primarily by Gurungs who practice Buddhism takes about 5 hours walk. We head west up the Buri Gandaki Valley, contouring up and out of the canyon, then drop into the Shringi Khola Valley. More ups and downs eventually bring us to Ghap, a village of five or six stone houses. The Mani wall in Ghap has particularly elegant carvings, many of which depict the Buddha in various meditative poses and others of the Tibetan saint Milarepa, who is said to have travelled and meditated in this valley. This is our camping spot for tonight.

Sep 12: Day 9: Trek from Ghap to Namrung (2,670m).

Today, we head into the woods through fir trees alive with birdlife, including the monal, or impeyan pheasant, Nepal's colorful national bird. On the north side of the river is the Tom Khola, flowing in a deep gorge from Tibet, almost doubling the flow of the Buri Gandaki. There is a lot of trading between villages in this region and those higher in the valley and also with Tibet. In the middle of the forest we cross a wooden bridge spanning the Buri Gandaki, then make a long climb through bamboo and rhododendron forests to Namrung (2,670m). This village has lovely stone houses and a police checkpost that controls access to the upper part of the valley. (About 5 hours.)

Sep 13:  Day 10:Trek from Namrung to Shya (3,530m).

Beyond Namrung we enter the Nupri Region, inhabited by descendants of Tibetan immigrants. After passing through the villages of Barcham, Li, and Sho, we begin to get spectacular views of Manaslu, Manaslu North, and Naike Peak at the head of the valley. The trail finally emerges onto a plateau at Shya (3,530m), one of the most spectacular view sites in the Himalayas, with wide vistas of Himal Chuli, Ngadi Chuli (Peak 29), and Manaslu. We trek about 5 hours for this trek.

Sep 14: Day 11: Trek from Shya to Sama Gaon (3,541m).

From Shya, the trail crosses a ridge, enters and then exits a side canyon, then descends onto a rock-strewn moraine. From here we clamber across the boulders to emerge onto a ridge overlooking the extensive pastures and fields of Samagaon (3,541m). Samagoan was the original Base Camp for Manaslu, though nowadays it is merely a staging post, and not occupied for the mainstay of the expedition. We will move our loads from here to ABC, and operate from this camp once everyone is acclimatized.

Sep 15: Day 12: Acclimatization day at Samagaon (3,541m).

This is the day for your acclimatization to prepare for further trekking up to the Manaslu base camp.

Sep 16: Day 13: Trek from Sama Gaon to Samdo (3,872m).

Re-energized following our rest day, we descend to the Budi Gandaki, which has now turned north again, and follow the trail to the Larkya La. Winding on a shelf above the river, the trail is at first good and easy, then gets rougher as it reaches a ridge where yak trains have ground it up. We continue to Samdo (3,872m), which is nestled behind a ridge. Today we only walk 3-4 hours and accommodate in camping.

Sep 17: Day 14: Acclimatization and walk up and down to ABC (4,750m). 

We have the option of walking up to Pungey Gompa and the hill behind it, or heading all the way up to ABC. If there has been a lot of rain, there can be some difficult river crossings to get to ABC. ABC is the ‘Advanced Base Camp' for expeditions to Manaslu. It is sited in a well-protected location on moraines, spacious and flat with room enough several teams.

Sep 18: Day 15: Final move to ABC for Camping (4,750m).

Sep 19- Oct 13: Day 16-40:

Manaslu Summit Climbing Period 

These days are the major climbing days for you to ascend the summit of most awaited Mt. Manaslu. After some day’s acclimatization and exercise you will be taken to the higher camps to be closer to the summit of (8,163m) where you will be provided food for high altitude. You are allowed to trek from lower camps to higher camps or vice versa for more practice and acclimatization. Finally we wish for your success to reach in the summit. Here you get full board service with tented camp accommodation in all camps.

ABC to Camp One (5,500m) 

You will face the easy rock scrambling with one straightforward step of 10-15 m below Camp 1. The rock is loose in places. Team members normally move together roped up 'Alpine style', though some sections might be fixed. Camp 1 is located in a superb position on a col. 3 - 4 hours time for climbing time.

Camp One to Camp Two (6,400m)

The route between camp 1 and Camp 2 goes up to couloirs and through an icefall, weaving between seracs with crevasses underfoot. This area is prone to avalanche collapse as well - usually outpouring at well-defined chutes, which can be crossed quickly. 4 - 6 hours climbing to camp 2. Fixed rope - approximately 500 meters required in short sections between camp 1 and camp 2 (including the section through the icefall).

Camp Two to Camp Three (7,300m)

The route to camp 3 goes up to an icefall and then weaves up onto the main slope. A rightward trending ramp, which can be very icy, is traversed and leads into camp 3. The climbing period between camps 2 to 3 is about 6-9 hours.

Camp 3 to Summit (8,163m) and back to camp 2

The slope from Camp 3 is about 20 degrees behind camp, before steeping up to 30 to 40 degrees. In good conditions, this section does not need to be fixed. As you get higher the slopes get steeper and need to be fixed, first to the fore summit, then to the final highest summit, which is a steep pinnacle 150 meters away from the fore summit and 50 meters high. From the summit, the team will aim to return all the way to Camp 2. Anticipate an 8-12 hour round trip to the summit and back to Camp 2.

A ramp leads onto a plateau that is crossed to reach the summit. There can be heavy crevassing above Camp 3, requiring team members to move together roped-up, if the crevasses are covered. Some teams have become lost on the plateau in bad weather, meaning this section should be marked with wands at very frequent intervals, and GPS carried to mark the location of camps and key features. The summit ridge is exposed and is fixed with rope.

Clearly some significant but relatively well-defined areas of ice fall and crevasses fields, requiring caution and the use of appropriate strategies: speed, fixed rope, roping-up and navigation aids. 

Oct 14: Day 41: Return trek to Samagoan from ABC after clean up the Camp.

Oct 15: Day 42:Trek from Sama village to Namrung (2670m), which takes about five hours, over night in the camp.

Oct 16: Day 43:Trek from Namrung to Philim village (1606m) which takes about four hours, over night in the camp.

Oct 17: Day 44:Trek from Philim Village to Macha khola (1330m), which takes about six hours, overnight in the camp.

Oct 18: Day 45:Trek from Machakhola, to Soti Khola (1165m), which Takes about five hours, overnight in the camp.

Oct 19: Day 46:Trek from Soti Khola to Arughat (950m), which takes four and half hours, overnight in the camp.

Oct 20: Day 47:Drive from Arughat to Kathmandu (1350m), which takes about seven hours, transfer to the Hotel.

Oct 21: Day 48:Final departure, or alternative Join other activities.

Or:

Oct 14: Day 42: Helicopter to Kathmandu

Helicopter flight back to Kathmandu (please be aware that the flight relies on clear weather and is likely to be very early in the morning). We return to the welcome delights of the Summit Hotel, with its peaceful gardens, cool swimming pool, welcoming rooms and inviting bar. In the evening, we have our farewell celebration and expedition dinner for which the hotel bar is kept well stocked!

Oct 16: Day 43: Transfer for Final Departure 

This is the day that we are really missing you. We transfer you to the airport or any port for final departure or alternatively join other activities.

Note:

• the above itinerary is a guideline and standard suggested pattern chosen by majority of our customers. Your final itinerary will be customised according to your available time and requirements.

• the final itinerary duration and schedule may be reduced or extend depending on your time, budget, your fitness, class of service or any other preferences. The quote will be provided for you initial requirements and can be adjusted with mutual agreement should you require modifying these requirements.

• For further information please read: How to book Trip in Nepal?

Manaslu Expedition Spring 2016 Itinerary

Apr01/Day 01:Arrival in Kathmandu Airport and Hotel transfer

Apr02/Day 02:Preparation, Briefings, Last minute shopping and formalities

Apr03/Day 03:Drive 6hrs from Kathmandu to Arughat(950m); camping

Apr04/Day 04:Trek 5hrs from Arughat to Khanchok(950m); camping

Apr05/Day 05:Trek 5hrs from Khanchok to Sotikhola (1165m); camping

Apr06/Day 06:Trek 5hrs from Sotikhola to Machhakhola(1330m); camping

Apr07/Day 07:Trek 6hrs from Machhakhola to Jagat(1350m); camping

Ap08r/Day 08:Trek 5hrs from Jagat to Ngyak(2300m); camping

Apr09/Day 09:Trek 6hrs from Ngyak to Namrung(2550m)

Apt10/Day 10:Trek 5hrs from Namrung to Syalla village (3150m

Apr11/Day 11:Trek 7hrs from Syalla Village to Sama Gaun(3780m)

Apr12/Day 12:Rest and acclimatization day at Sama Village

Apr13/Day 13:Trek 6hrs from Sama Village to Manaslu Base Camp (4700m)

Apr14/Day 14-42:Climbing period; summit Manaslu (8163m)

May12/Day 43:Preparation to return to Kathmandu; Clean Base Camp

May13/Day 44:Trek 5hrs from Base Camp to Sama village(3780m)

May14/Day 45:Trek 5hrs from Sama village to Namrung(2550m)

May15/Day 46:Trek 4hrs from Namrung to Philim village (2300m)

May16/Day 47:Trek 6hrs from Philim Village to Machakhola(1330m),

May17/Day 48:Trek 5hrsfrom Machakhola, to Soti Khola (1165m)

May18/Day 49:Trek 4hrs from Soti, Khola to Arughat(950m)

May19/Day 50:Drive 7hrs from Arughat to Kathmandu by tourist mini bus; hotel accommodation

May20/Day 51:Sightseeing in Kathmandu valley (Durbar Square, Swoyambhunath, Boudhanath & Pashupatinath); leisure and shopping. Farewell and celebration dinner in the evening.

May21Day 52:Transfer to the airport for final departure or alternatively join other activities