Mt. Dhaulagiri Expedition

Dhaulagiri Expedition (8,167m)

The 7th highest mountain peak in the world is Mt. Dhaulagiri. It is the 5th highest one amongst in Nepal. This mountain is located in the Northwest of Myagdi District of Nepal.  Dhavala means “White” and Girimeans “Mountain peak” from Sanskrit, is a real giant which endorse to say the range of White Mountains as Dhavala-giri here after called Mt.Dhaulagiri in combined. The real altitude of Mt Dhaulagiri is (8,167m) from sea level. Mt. Dhaulagiri is one of the most formidable peaks to climb with the first successful summit only in 1960 by the Swiss following from the Northeast ridge. This mountain was first sighted by the British surveyors in India in the early 1800s but remained virtually unknown until a Swiss aerial survey in 1949. Five ridges buttress Dhaulagiri l and even up until the early 1980's only the Northeast ridge had been successfully climbed. Dhaulagiri is considered the most interesting peak among the eight thousand meters one. In terms of rise above the terrain Dhaulagiri is unparallel as it rises 7000m over Kali Gandaki valley over horizontal length of 30km, which by any standard is an impressive statistic.

Mt. Dhaulagiri Expedition:

The vast majority of ascents to date have been via the first ascent route, which is the "Normal Route" on the Expedition of Dhaulagiri. However ascents have been made from almost every direction in this mountain. Dhaulagiri has 5 ridges and south and west faces, which raise 4000m from their Base Camps, offering opportunities to develop many interesting routes from Italian, Swiss and French camps. As of 2007, there had been 358 summit ascents of Dhaulagiri and 58 climbing fatalities on the mountain. Due to its technically challenging routes, the lack of big commercial expeditions is one of the more attractivequalities of Dhaulagiri as only seasoned mountaineers seem to have interest in this formidable mountain.

Everest Expeditions Nepal is pleased to offer for our beloved Expedition members to this unforgettable and highly exciting mountain expedition in Mt. Dhaulagiri as the world-class equipped and managed project. We provide a comprehensive service organizing all necessary permits, and climbing documentation, travelling logistics including airfares, ground transportation, porters, and other individual services required by mountaineers. On the track to the ABC we organize logistics for provision of all required accommodation and food. Upon request or if previously confirmed we are ready to supply all necessary logistics, rescues, supports etc. to the climbers included in the Expedition. 

Dhaulagiri Expedition Base Camp Service:

• Everest Expeditions Nepal provides very professional, supportive and friendly mountaineering logistic services from Kathmandu to the ABC as well as during the climb. Our objective is to ensure a good quality, supportive, safe, friendly, stress free and comprehensive service to maximize summit opportunity.

• We provide a comprehensive service organizing all necessary permits, and climbing documentation, travelling logistics including airfares, ground transportation, porters, and other individual services required by mountaineers. On the track to the ABC we organize logistics for provision of all required accommodation and food.

• Our cook and helpers will prepare and serve three delicious freshly cooked and plentiful meals a day and will ensure that hot and cold drinks are available 24hrs a day.

• We provide spacious expedition quality personal tents for all our clients both with full board or base-camp service only.

• We also provide dining tent, kitchen tent, toilet facilities and portable shower facilities and tent accommodation for our staff.

• We provide access to communication including satellite telephone and internet access, and solar panels to charge your batteries.

Dhaulagiri Expedition Full Board Service:

• Everest Expeditions Nepal provides personal tent and food, which will be prepared in high camps by their climbing Sherpa. We provide UHF/VHF hand held radios on the mountain to maintain communications between ABC and high camps.

• We provide a personal climbing Sherpa guide to help the clients to reach the summit. Personal climbing Sherpa will set up camp 1, camp 2 and camp 3 including food provisions, fuel and oxygen and will guide and assist the client on the summit day. There are no commercial expeditions on Dhaulagiri so your climbing Sherpa with cooperation of other clients climbing Sherpas will set-up fixed ropes.

Approaches to ABC (Advance Base Camp):

• The approach to the Base Camp is from Pokhara, driving to Beni Bazaar and trekking from there along the Kali Gandaki Valley through Tatopani (1189m), Ghasa (2012m), and Marpha (2667m) before turning off to Yak Kharka (3680m) and the Dhaulagiri Base Camp (4700m). The trek to the Base Camp takes 5 days. On the way back we trek only 2 days to Jomsom (2710m) and take the flight back to Pokhara.

Climbing Routes:

• Normal route is via Northeast Ridge, the original route climbed by Swiss-Austrian expedition in 1960. Typically 4 camps will be set up for the climbing. The Advance Base Camp is established at 5,300m, just to deposit the gear but it will not be used as an overnight camp due to avalanche danger.

• Camp 1 will be established at 5,900m on the Col east from the ABC.

• Camp 2 will be established at 6,400m, which is reached from camp 1 with some steep climbing sections.

• Camp 3 (7200m) will be located towards west with steep ice and snow climbing. From Camp 3 we climb towards the East Ridge, where we likely experience strong wind conditions before reaching camp 4 (7500m). This is the most difficult part of the climb.

• From camp 4 we make direct push for the summit and return to camp 3 if the conditions will allow us. With difficult conditions the fallback is to setup bevy at 7,900m in order to attempt another summit push next day.

Dhaulagiri Expedition Spring -2016

Every Year in spring and autumn the Mt. Dhaulagiri Expedition could be scheduled. 

In autumn you may start this expedition since end of August and complete at around end of October not exceeding middle of November for end of it. In this period the temperature toward the expedition area is changing from hot to cold. So, the climber has to face the critical situation for acclimatization for approaching to summit. 

However in spring, the temperature to the Dhaulagiri climbing area is getting from cold to hot which is more convenient for approaching to summit after sufficient acclimatization and practice in various camps. Start at the end of March or beginning of April and end at the beginning of June is the best recommended period for Dhaulagiri Expedition in spring. The total duration will be within 45 days. 

Thus we strongly recommend our climbers to choose the spring season for their Dhaulagiri Summit Dream however, we are ready enough for organizing the Expedition in both autumn and spring of the year.

General Itinerary: 

Day 01:Arrival and Transfer

This day is your arrival date. We welcome and receive you in Tribhuvan International Airport, Kathmandu and transfer you to the Hotel for overnight accommodation as booked. (1300M)

Day 02:Preparation and Briefing for Departure to Everest Region

This day we are busy for briefing about expedition, documentation and last minute shopping and preparation for departure to the trekking and climbing route. You will be kept in get set position.

Day 03:Kathmandu-Pokhara-Darbang Fly/Drive  

Fly from Kathmandu to Pokhara about 25 minutes and drive from Pokhara to Darbang via Beni which takes about five hours; overnight at tented camp full board.

Day 04:Darbang to Dharapani Trek

Trek from Darbang to Dharapani; overnight at tented camp accommodation.

Day 05:Dharapani to Muri Trek 

Trek from Dharapani to Muri; overnight at tented camp accommodation.

Day 06:Muri to Bagar Trek

Trek from Muri to Bagar; overnight at tented camp accommodation.

Day 07:Bagar to Dovan Trek

Trek from Bagar to Dovan; overnight at tented camp accommodation.

Day 08:Dovan to Sallaghari Trek

Trek from Dovan to Sallaghari; overnight at tented camp accommodation.

Day 09:Sallaghari to Italy base Camp Trek

Trek from Sallaghari to Italy base Camp; overnight at tented camp accommodation.

Day 10:Italy base camp to Dhaulagiri Base Camp Trek

Trek from Italy base camp to Dhaulagiri Base Camp (4700m); overnight at tented camp accommodation.

Day 11-39:Dhaulagiri Summit Climbing Period 

These days are the major climbing days for you to ascend the summit of most awaited Mt. Dhaulagiri. After some day’s acclimatization and exercise you will be taken to the higher camp to be closer to the summit of (8167m) where you will be provided food for high altitude. We are allowed to trek from lower to upper camp or vice versa for more practice and acclimatization. Finally we wish for your success to reach in the summit. Here you get full board service with tented camp accommodation.

Day 40:Preparation to returning (Clean Base Camp)

Today is the day for preparing to move from the base camp by packing all logistics and clean the base camp to maintain the eco friendly environment in the area as per government rule.

Day 41:Dhaulagiri Base Camp to down Yak Kharka trek

Trek from Dhaulagiri Base Camp to down Yak Kharka (3680m); overnight at tented camp accommodation.

Day 42:Yak Kharka to Jomsom Trek

Trek from Yak Kharka to Jomsom (2710m), Which Takes about six hours; overnight at tented camp accommodation.

Day 43:Jomsom to Pokhara Flight

Today, you Fly from Jomsom to Pokhara, which takes about 20 minutes; overnight BB Plan Hotel accommodation in Pokhara. (Or, if you want to extent your duration of trek, you may walk down from Jomsom via Ghasa-Tatopani, Beni etc or take surface transportation via same route to reach Pokhara.)

Day 44:Back to Kathmandu.

Drive 7hrs from Pokhara to Kathmandu by tourist mini bus. You can take 25min flight from Pokhara to Kathmandu instead; overnight BB Plan Hotel accommodation in Kathmandu.

Day 45:The Leisure day and sightseeing

This day we take you for sightseeing in and around Kathmandu (Hanumandhoka Durbar Square, Swoyambhunath, Boudhanath, and Pashupatinath) and Farewell-Celebration dinner with local typical cultural experience in Restaurant.

Day 46:Transfer for Final Departure 

This is the day that we are really missing you. We transfer you to the airport or any port for final departure or alternatively join other activities.

Note

• The above itinerary is a guideline and standard suggested pattern chosen by majority of our customers. Your final itinerary will be customized according to your available time and requirements.

• The final itinerary duration and schedule may be reduced or extended depending on your time, budget, your fitness, class of service or any other preferences. The quote will be provided for you initial requirements and can be adjusted with mutual agreement should you require modifying these requirements.