Is Climbing Shishapangma in Spring Better than in Autumn?
On Shishapangma like Cho Oyu (it doesn’t matter), each season has slightly different weather and different attractions but for Shishapangma being lower than Everest the reliability of good weather are roughly smooth.
Spring starts cold and then warms up. So acclimatization is tough but the climb can be pleasant with slightly longer days and warmer temperatures. In spring you wait for transition between winter winds and monsoon snowfall. You don’t want to get big a snow dump on Shishapangma because of objective avalanche danger on its 30deg slopes and the steep North ridge. The visibility in spring is usually not as clear as in autumn. Optimum spring summit usually is in around mid-May.
Autumn climbing is nice and comfortable. It is easy to acclimatize and you basically wait for the weather transition from monsoon to winter, when winds stop before they change direction. There is lots of snow and high objective avalanche danger, so you basically wait for snowfall to stop and snow to consolidate, and hope for no snow dump just before you ready for your climb. The visibility is superb, crisp and crystal clear. Optimum autumn summit is around end of September and early October before winter cold winds set in.
Highlights
• 14th highest peak on Earth - only 8,000M lying completely in Tibet
• Straightforward and technically less demanding - most suitable for those wishing to scale an 8,000M without much risk
• One base camp, One ABC, and three additional higher Camps supported by highly experienced mountaineers, guides, and crew members
• Expedition includes acclimatization and cultural tour of the Tibetan Capital Lhasa and other ancient settlements
Trip Introduction
Mount Shishapangma is one of the easiest 8,000er mountains. Unlike the 8,000ers that lie either in Nepal or Nepal-Tibet Border, Shishapangma is the only 8,000er that completely lies inside Tibet. In fact, the mountain came to limelight only after the Chinese Government opened Tibet to the Western summiteers in 1978. Shishapangma means "the range above the grassy plain" and Tibetans worship the mountain as a holy being. The mountain is also the youngest as well as smallest of its other 8,000er cousins.
The normal route to Shishapangma is the North West Ridge. The route takes us up easy angled snow slopes up to 35 degrees with one steeper section. Sherpas fix the lines on the steeper or crevassed sections. The summit day is the most arduous day in the climb - the summit lying on the far end of the high snowfield. However, all the hard labor gets rewarded on the summit with the magnifiscent views the highest peaks unfolding before your eyes.
Day to Day Itinerary
Day 01: Arrival KTM & transfer to hotel - 1300m/4264ft
Upon your arrival in the Tribhuvan international airport, our representative will welcome you and will assist to transfer you in your hotel in Kathmandu. You may relax at your hotel or go around for shopping. In the evening Everest Expeditions Nepal will organize welcome dinner for you in one of the typical Nepalese restaurant in the heart of Kathmandu meanwhile briefing about your adventurous trip will take place. Overnight at hotel.
Day 02-03: At leisure in Kathmandu
Sightseeing and Preparation for Shisapangma Expedition. While the leader attends a formal briefing in the Ministry of Tourism, you will explore the fascinating city of Kathmandu. You will visit famous Stupa, Boudhnatha and the popular Hindu pilgrimage site, Pashupatinath Temple. In the late afternoon, the leader will check everyone's equipment, as Kathmandu is the last opportunity to buy anything missing. You will also get introduced with fellow expedition members and guides. Overnight at hotel.
Day 04: Fly to Lhasa
We fly to one of the highest capitals in the world Lhasa of Tibet. Relish the astonishing views of the Himalaya, including Everest, Makalu, Kangchenjunga and the Tibetan valleys. In Lhasa, we will be met and taken to a good standard hotel near the city centre. We make Lhasa our base for acclimatization to the high Tibetan altitude.
Day 05-06: Acclimatizing and discovering Lhasa
While we acclimatize with the high altitude, we also visit important landmarks in Lhasa including the Dalai Lama's Potala Palace. Lhasa life certainly offers glimpses into one of the most preserved ancient cultural heritages.
Day 07: Drive to Shigatse - 3,900m/12792 ft :6 hrs
Depart Lhasa for Shigatse, Tibet's second largest city. Reach the banks of the Tsang Po, which becomes the Brahmaputra River in India. Drive up-stream for a while before turning southwest through barren desert-like valleys. Overnight stay in a Shigatse hotel.
Day 08: Drive to Xegar - 4,000m/13120 ft :8 hrs
Continue along the Tibetan highway. Views of the Himalaya unfold with a spectacular panorama of peaks including Everest. Stay overnight in a hotel outside the main town of Xegar. If time allows, visit the main town and its hilltop monastery.
Day 09: Acclimatization Day
Acclimatizing well before gaining height toward the Chinese base camp. Visit the main town and a gentle hike up to its hilltop monastery.
Day 10: Drive to Shishapangma base camp
Enjoy the unfolding views High Himalayas including that of the magnificent Shishapangma. Cross the Thang La (5,200m) and turn off the Lhasa highway toward west. After a 25 km drive on the road to Mount Kailash, turn south eventually arriving at the Shishapangma Base Camp (5,000m). The base camp lies close to the Yambughangala River.
Day 10-12: Base camp preparation
Acclimatization and preparing equipments for the climb. Also organizing load for yaks to carry. It's important to acclimatize at the Base Camp properly before moving toward the advance base camp.
Day 13: Move to Advanced Base Camp
Trek to advance base camp (ABC). The yaks carry the load. Follow a jeep track to a plateau above the river and then the west bank of the valley to ABC near the snout of the Yambughangala Glacier (5,600m). It's about 20 km from Base Camp to ABC.
Day 14-39: The Climb
Enough time needs to be allowed for bad weather and slow acclimatisation. Depending upon conditions, two or three camps are set up above ABC. Start climbing leading to a large camping area at 6,400m. Reach the shoulder of the mountain and camp 2 (7,000m) gaining a lot of height. From camp 2, the North-West Ridge is easily reachable. There may be snow and ice climbing. There are fixed ropes are placed on all steep sections. Requirement of a high camp depends upon the weather and other conditions. Climb the long summit ridge which rises across the snow slope below. The West Summit (8,008m) of Shishapangma is quicker to reach than the main summit. After summiting, withdraw from the mountain removing all equipment and rubbish and taking it back to ABC.
Day 40: Return to Base Camp
Get back to the Base Camp. Equipments are carried by yaks. Prepare for tomorrow's departure from Tibet.
Day 41: Depart Tibet
Drive to Nepal. Cross the Friendship Bridge by the afternoon. Camping or lodge stay at the Nepal Tibet border at Tatopani.
Day 42: Arrive in Kathmandu
Drive to Kathmandu and the welcome delights of the Summit Hotel.
Day 43: At leisure in Kathmandu
Buy souvenirs, hang around, or just relax.
Day 44: Depart Kathmandu
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